Aesthetics

The talented Sandra Eterovic laid down the gauntlet for this post a few weeks ago: 7 Aesthetic themes used in your work.

I don't like to do things by halves, so I have been stewing away on this one in the interim. It's been a lovely exercise, trawling through my collection of inspirational images, mood boards and archives, to distill this down to the purest and most accurate 7 themes.

Some of you will recognise these inspirations, or perhaps you and I are still getting acquainted.
Enjoy!


1.
Bold colour, spectrums, tone variations.
I can't seem to get into neutrals or muted colours, I need bright stimulating colours to keep me going, it's like a tonic to my system.

I love the history of colour use throughout art and society, the origins of pigments and dyes, the inventiveness and trade of these much loved and sought after hues. Lapis Lazuli blue from Afghanistan, Indian Yellow from the urine of cows who are strictly fed mango leaves, purple from sea snails. Fascinating.


2.
Stamps
The amazing celebration of graphic design on a teeny tiny piece of well travelled paper. This also links to the idea of framing, I use this a lot in my work, whether it's stamps, hand-embroidered trims, motifs etc. Love a bit of framing.

3.
Royal and military regalia.
Love the ribbons, enamelling, jewel setting, and decorative elements. I think this also extends to souvenir spoons, and has links with framing, motifs etc.


Much loved Beci Orpin Medal Print which lives in my lounge room.

4.
Costume.
Love a bit of dressing up. This is a classic pirate ensemble which used to reside in my hallway, the bib was $2 from Camberwell Market, the jacket $4 from an op-shop, the hat from a kid's party that Leo went to, and the souvenir spoon brooch from Kids in Berlin.

I particularly love 17th and 18th century dress, and European military uniforms - the predominance of red white and blue, the tailoring, the crisp silhouettes. The braiding, cording and embroidery present on male dress is something so quaint and decorative, I miss that peacock element of male dress. Vive Louis the Sun King!

I'm also rather a fan of sci-fi costuming, see the On My Bedside Table post on the Costumes of Star Wars.

5.
Chinoiserie and Japonisme.
Can't get enough. I love the use of gold and silver, in works on paper and also brocade fabrics. Love the stylised graphics, the colours, the silhouette of traditional motifs; flowers, animals, utensils and borders.

Red and gold, fans, lanterns, tassels, umbrellas, obi, kimono, tabi socks and getas, Japanese 18th century woodcuts, the divine blues used by Hokusai and Hiroshige.

Hiroshige - Fuji

6.
Shape and silhouette.
As a creature of contradictions, my work is not always about decoration and detail. Many of my ideas stem from a simple shape or silhouette, which lends the work an immediate point of reference without overloading it with information.

For years I have loved the shape of the traditional Chinese Junk Boat sails, and always wanted to make a pair of shoes inspired by this. Finally I got around to it, first making a playing card version for an exhibition, and then a fully constructed version for myself.

'Hong Kong' 2007

'Hong Kong' 2008

The shape of the hull also influenced the wedge sole.
This is one of the most 'complete' projects I've undertaken, and feels very satisfying to look back and see the whole thing from idea to existence.

7.
Lists.
Not sure exactly how this is 'aesthetic', but lists definitely form a theme in my work. One of my photography lecturers at art school noticed that I would always investigate and explore themes from beginning to end in a piece. This is a little hard to explain, but I love researching a period, or technique, and figuring out how to incorporate a summary of sorts on whatever topic it may be.

Doing this visually is a challenge, when is too much?

For example, when designing a pair of shoes I consider many factors; the period during which the style originated from, the classic toe shape, the heel height and shape, the colours, materials, surface decorations, buttons, zips etc. It all goes into my algorithm calculator, ie sketchbook, and I mess around with ideas until I come up with the perfect encapsulation of the theme.

For me this is a visual list, a complete collection of references which all add up to a final object. Hope that makes sense.

So thanks to Sandra for suggesting this topic. Let me know what you think, or if you fancy summarising your work in this way!

Ecco a lei!

Finito, my navy blue Printemps with white details.
They look much more cowboy to me than the white ones.
Now all I need is some truly Autumnal weather in which to wear them.
Giddy up!

Guildford Lane Gallery

Last week, while buying hides at NSW Leather, Marisa said to me, "Oh I saw the sketches of your shoes at Guildford Lane Gallery". My response was, "Please explain?" And so Leo and I ended up at GLG on Friday, having a look around at a bunch of great shows.


Here are my cherished Printemps, in a sketch titled 'Well Heeled', with other footwear illustrations including April Phillips, Balmain, and Mr Christian Louboutin.

This particular show is 'On the Street... Patsyfox' by Angie Rehe.
Here's the blurb which I blatantly stole from the GLG site.

'The Patsyfox blog, an illustrated account of people and things as seen through the eyes of illustrator Angie Réhe, celebrates its first birthday with an exhibition of illustrations from throughout the year. Spot the illustrated locals alongside visitors such as The Sartorialist, and read some of the accompanying anecdotes.'





Some more of Angie's work.

You should visit the Patsyfox blog, it's rather funny and there are oodles of fab illustrations.


Oh, and downstairs there is a great show of work from clever folk who were selected to submit designs to Otto and Spike, a fabulous Brunswick knitwear label. Mi dispiace, I can't remember who the author of this work is, but it was my fave. Ahoy there indeed!

Listening to: Trilok Gurtu

On my bedside table

Ahoy there!


I got this book at an op-shop in Adelaide, I really love this series of illustrated paperbacks. For some reason I have been smitten with sailing ships lately, and in my usual way I have undertaken an exploration of the theme.



Hence, I am reading 'Master and Commander' by Patrick O'Brian, which is rather dense and full of detailed terminology, so I cheated a bit and watched the movie with Rusty as Jack Aubrey. Ah Rusty.


Also I recently read 'Sea of Poppies' by Amitav Ghosh, a gorgeous first installment in a trilogy, full of sailing.


I now know what the mizzen mast is, the fo'csle, the poop, and the spritsail. Oh yes, I'm ready for my test.

Things I am looking forward to

image courtesy of facedowns

• sleeping on my front
• eating nori rolls, ham sandwiches, and hollandaise sauce
• running and training capoeira in a vigorous manner
• wearing the other 90% of my wardrobe
• fitting into my shoes

and most importantly

• gazing at the Little Miss in a few weeks' time
  

New Belts

Four new belts over at Etsy.

Love love love these and hope that you do too.

Anyone in your world need a present?


Navy blue with birds, insects and flowers, Medium.


Pebble-textured white with military medals and awards, Large.


Navy blue with a color spectrum of flowers, Medium.

Chocolate brown with birds, insects and flowers, Medium.

Part Two

I'm back over at Pencil & Pipette for round two today, loving these photos taken by Anna.


It's funny when someone comes to visit your studio and you get to see it anew, through their eyes. A worthwhile experience, as I tend to consider it a bit of a crazy mess. Fairly obvious that a shoemaker isn't going to have a clean, minimalist workshop.

Listening to: New Buffalo - I've got you and you've got me

Herbie is my God

DOHP!

Fell over again peeps. Rolled my ankle over yesterday arvo and heard things ripping - oh boy it is excruciating. I had the biggest cry in a long time, Leo didn't know what to do, so he kissed my hand.

Ice ice baby, every other 20 mins, compression bandage in between, No walking, no driving. Crutches are my new aide, and swinging my lower body forward is so difficult due to my separated abs. The Little Miss hates it. So do I.

I've been telling her to stay in for 4 more weeks, can't bear the thought of going into labour when I can't even stand up.

Leo is a bit bored, although we have been watching many DVDs: Astro Boy, My Family and Other Animals, Julie & Julia and our favourite, Postman Pat. Love those Northern English accents.

Here's to speedy recoveries, Sam doing the Kinder run, and a new crochet project to pass the time spent sitting with my foot up on a chair.

Listening to: RRR Sunday programs

Golden Hands indeed

Sometimes getting stuck into a brand new project gives the best form of instant satisfaction. I've been looking through my collection of Golden Hands books for some crochet inspiration, and stumbled upon a pattern for cushions/softies that we absolutely had to tackle ASAP.

Mostly I'm only in the studio when Leo's at Kinder, but here was a project we could do together, and what Mum doesn't feel righteous when she's providing her kid with a bit of joy? I really loved having his 'help' during this project, he actually had his foot on the pedal of the domestic sewing machine for a lot of this, as I am a bit out of action, more on that later.


Pinning the pattern onto the felt. You can see the open book in the background. I love the 70s aesthetic, which survived till the finished product. J'adore. Mum always said that I should have been born in the 50s, so that I could really immerse myself in the 70s, I always seem to gravitate towards things of that era.

The original cushions are made of hessian and lined in calico, which is way too much effort for me. Plus they are filled with 'kapok', can someone tell me what the bejeezus this is? I'm guessing it's a natural fibre of some sort that would perhaps poke through the hessian, hence the overkill of the lining.


Stuffing Fishy with help from Chas. The boys really enjoyed this, in fact Leo was only really interested in this part, everything else was a prelude.


Admiring our stitching.


Finished cushions up on the top bunk.



Painting their portraits. Bless.

So there you have it, a bit of kid crafting, done in a few days, easy peasy and the boy is chuffed.

Yes please

I would like this jacket please.

Thinking about it all day.

I'll also have legs like hers please, if you would be so kind.

Listening to: Lady Gaga and Beyoncé - Telephone

Pencil & Pipette

Hey folks, here's me in my studio, photographed and thoughtfully questioned by Anna from Pencil & Pipette. Her blog motto is, 'writings and samplings on creativity and how people use it to make positive change', which is an immensely appealing idea.




We met in a rather serendipitous fashion on a 43 degree day in the Kid's Gallery at the Melbourne Museum. Anna had just visited my blog a few days before, and recognised some of the accessories that I was wearing at the time, so she introduced herself and the rest is history.

We have been emailing back and forth, I responded to Anna's questions regarding making shoes, mass-production, and the role of the craftsperson in new practices of sustainability. I answered in my standard verbose fashion, and so Anna has split the interview into two parts - I do tend to waffle on.

Today it's all about handmade sneakers, my first love, and the reason I got into shoemaking in the first place.


Hope that its informative in terms of my methods, let me know what you think.
Thanks Anna!

Insert Coin Here launch partay

This moving feast of gumball machines is part of the Cultural Program at LMFF (Fashion Week dahling), hence this Friday's soiree.

It's at 1000 £ Bend, 361 Little Lonsdale St, from 7pm to 11pm.
Bring your $2 coins!

Tuesday

Chocolate banana cake which Leo and I made yesterday. I have already eaten nearly half of it!


Pot of Lady Grey in my new $4 op-shop tea pot, which fits the cosy I bought ages ago. Unfortunately my work day was interrupted by many trips to the loo - not entirely productive.


Rainy view from my sewing machine. I cannot tell you how lovely this autumnal weather is, I have been looking forward to it for so long. The heat has affected my shoe size considerably, I cannot fit into any of my handmade shoes, which makes me so sad, I am schlepping about in my Birki clogs/sandals - ENOUGH!

I fell over yesterday and landed on my crappy hand/wrist, so no shoemaking for me this week, it's just too darn sore. Instead I'm stitching 8 new belts, including this classic Queens spectrum.....

.....and also this metallic navy with a spectrum of international flowers - it's a beauty.

To be honest I've lost my mojo, I have been hit with a huge wall of tiredness and my grump factor has gone off the charts. My guess is that the Little Miss is using up all my iron; I feel so depleted, and am moving a bit like a sloth who has eaten a whole watermelon.

35 weeks today, I've been getting heaps of those pesky Braxton Hicks contractions, which are a bit alarming actually. Sometimes I time them, just to have an idea of what's going on - who knows when this child will decide that she's ready.

In a strange way I feel like I'm bidding farewell to parts of my life: the ability to get some work done, the full nights of sleep, and the independence of my 5 year old chap. I hope that I can still keep in touch with you all when the Little Miss is here, it's inevitable that I will be getting cabin fever this winter, such is the schedule of sleeping and feeding for little ones. I hope that I can remember how to breastfeed!

Listening to: Alicia Keys and Jay Z - Empire State of Mind Turn it up!

On my bedside table

I love a bit of bling. This book is a comprehensive guide to all things costume jewellery, including historical information, designer profiles, buyers' tips and price guides. I am not particularly in the market to buy, but this book has given me great inspiration over the years.

I delve into it from time to time to look at colour combinations, shape and symmetry of designs, or to get a sense of size and scale.

Love love love this Florenza piece, many of the works in this book also tap into my interest in Royal Regalia.


Often I find myself at The Bead Company stocking up on findings and beads, or at Koodak trying to find the right chain, but I do get a bit overwhelmed with the array, and end up spending too much on things which may not be entirely what I'm looking for. Please tell me that happens to you too!

In truth my bedside table only just fits this one, as I am all stocked up on pregnancy and small baby books. It feels like I'm cramming for a test of sorts, ask me a question - I'm sure I know the answer!

Listening to: Wayne Shorter - House of Jade

Beth Levine

Beth Levine (1914 - 2006) was the first successful female shoe designer in an era and field dominated by men. In 1950, Beth and her husband started a shoe factory in New York where she designed shoes under his name, Herbert Levine. She is quoted as saying, 'Herb handled the business and I thought up outrageous things to keep him amused.'


Spring-o-lator. The elastic enabled the shoe to keep in contact with the foot.

Finding her start as a shoe model, Beth was uniquely suited to understanding the needs of women’s shoes, and was known for the comfort, wearability and beauty of her designs. Both practical and whimsical, she is credited with numerous ‘firsts’ such as the Spring-o-lator and the topless ‘No’ shoe. We have Beth to thank for Nancy Sinatra's boots, and she also created pop-influenced shoes which resembled sports cars or Aladdin's lamp. Together, she and Herbert won numerous design and industry awards, notably in 1967 for the stretch boot, which was essentially a pair of stockings with a heel.


Nancy Sinatra - These boots were made for walkin'


Rolled heel velvet mules - these have long been a favourite of mine.

Beth was instrumental in the popularity of the mule, which prior to that was a style only seen in Europe. She designed footwear for many famous clients, including four First Ladies, Halston, Marylin Monroe, and Cher. She was great at predicting trends and experimenting with materials, using timber commonly used in furniture, Astroturf, frog skin, braided play money, and various innovations in the use of plastic.


Curled plastic strips - 1950s.

Bellevue Arts Museum in Washington State, USA, is hosting a first-time retrospective of Beth Levine's work. Featuring ephemera and over 100 pairs of shoes and boots, this event would make my mouth water. If anyone is in the area, please go and visit, pick up a catalogue for me and I promise that you will be on my Christmas card list!

Runs until June 6th 2010. Oh boy.